Rediscovering Yeoville - E@t Arabi's Good Food in Yeoville

                                  There is no end. There is no beginning. There is only the infinite passion of life. -  Fellini, Frederico.

 Having arrived in Jo ’burg in 2004 I had never ventured into Yeoville, I had passed by it, glanced at the street leading to it but never gone into it.  Everyone I met like a jilted lover spoke of its past and how it’s a hell hole that you should never by the grace of God ever get lost in.  Like a fallen woman ostracized by society, Yeoville was that girl. 

2 weeks back whilst travelling in Durban I came across a 2012 Marie Claire and in the travelling section they featured an array of mouth-watering food pictures taken from a restaurant in Yeoville.  E@t Arabi's Good Food, a vegetarian restaurant in the midst of the mess that is Yeoville? Impossible, but my curiosity was roused and upon arriving back in jo’burg I called my friend to let her know that we had to go to this place. 

That very Saturday with my sister, yogi’s and my Canadian couch surfer Vivi (having travelled broadly it would be interesting to get a stranger’s perspective on the safety of the area), we made our way to Yeoville. As I turned into Rocky road I expected some dilapidated buildings, poor faces but I was greeted with vibrancy like no other, different from the congestion that is Hillbrow.  I saw a lot of different African restaurant’s, tall beautiful black men, fit enough to be part of any army and so well dressed in various African print couture that they could have been taken off the ramps of SA Fashion Week.   I saw mothers walking with their children, a Nandos, a park with kids playing in it and a striking mosaic public swimming pool building.  Amidst all this sensory assimilation, I realized I was lost I could not find this restaurant. I asked a car guard and he directed me to the exact spot.  This restaurant was in fact a tiny space about 2 metres wide, it’s an open working space with the kitchen towards the back of the room, an assortment of spices all in full view.  Headlines cover the extractor and the cook is rolling flour free pure chickpea falafel. The aroma of spices and curry had me instantly hungry, as we all tucked in the goodness of the food, silence fell upon the room as sighs of satisfaction were shared amongst us.  Food cooked with love.  

 It wasn’t long before we were greeted with a warm “family welcome” hugs shared all round and finally I met the man behind the pictures that had brought me to Yeoville.  A huge smile and quick wit had me entranced.  Not only did he welcome total stranger like he had always known us but he shared his thoughts so freely with us.  Having lived in Yeoville for close to 20 years, Sanza is a well of knowledge, he can tell you the history of the place and this of course was interspersed with locals who passed by to see and greet his guests. In one sitting I met more nationalities from Africa than I had met in 1 month in the Northern suburbs. 

 The pavements where abuzz with activity; a Malawian vendor selling pineapples from a trolley, we were treated to these pineapples by a guest of Sanza’s from Cameroon.  The Ethiopian next door running Happy Supermarket peaked around the corner in acknowledgement of our presence, and a Rastafarian passed by saying “Faya”, real people, going about their daily life; interacting with each other more than we do in suburban malls.

Walking up the street I saw a memorial poster for a local lady who had passed away placed in a shop window; in a foreign country where some have no family they have made their own family through their shared experience as migrants.  Yeoville is a ghetto yet it’s alive with possibility, it has every character you can think of, it’s not all rosy but people know each other, they live together with their differences and make it work.  I was at ease and as careful as I am in Sandton of being pick-pocketed.

I do find it sad that we will let things go to ruin when change arises instead of seeing the possibility that change can bring.  Can we not be like trees, that even though they shed their leaves in winter they do not die from that loss but grow new leaves?  Things change the entire time can we not be abundant in how we see things. 

Venture into Yeoville and see it for yourself, find Sanza’s restaurant even CNN Africa travel found it I’m sure you can.

On the couch with Nomadic Michelle: Meeting Vivi

Vivi out on the streets with Nomadic Michelle

The first time I heard about couch surfing I was chatting to a friend in South Korea who was travelling to the Philippines and would be staying for free at someone’s home, with accommodation possibly being the most expensive part of one’s vacation, besides the airfare (that’s if you are travelling by plane) this seemed like a huge saving to me and definitely something to try out myself.

Having joined couch surfing I decided to start off with hosting people, with my profile up and ready,  I decided to contact some people on the list that had been sent me  by couchsurfing of people needing  accommodation in Jo ’burg.

I sent 2 emails and both came back with positive responses, my first guest would be Vivian a.k.a Vivi by the time she left (you know we South- African’s love shortening everything).  She was on a yearlong trip from Canada having travelled from Tanzania all the way down to South Africa.

What would make a young woman leave her home comforts to take on the big, wide world?

Vivi had decided on taking this trip 4 years ago, over the 4 years she saved enough money to make this dream come true, I suppose at 30 you have to do something wildly brave and exciting.  A whole year on the road sounds like an adventure of a lifetime.  When she contacted me to let me know that she was on her way in taxi from Mtubatuba I thought this girl has lost her mind! A Taxi from Mtubatuba is no joke; her reasoning was if so many locals use it surely it cannot be that bad.  She arrived in Johannesburg on time and was escorted by one of the taxi folk to the Gautrain at Park station (nothing like good old South African Hospitality). This guy did not even ask her for a tip and when she apologised for not having one for him he simply said “Ai sister do not worry I was just making sure you are safe.”

Is Jo ‘burg such a Big Bad City?

When I met Vivi she was sitting outside the Gautrain station in Rosebank, the big backpacking bag told me that this was my guest. After getting acquainted she told me about her trip to the city of gold and how en route when they stopped to fill up with petrol,  a gas station attendant was so taken with her that he asked for her hand in marriage and would not allow the taxi to leave until he had made his intentions clear to her.  We both had a good giggle because Zulu men are well known for not allowing a gorgeous woman to pass their sight without making a proposal (our president is a good example).  After arriving at my place Viv was ready to see what Jo ‘burg has to offer and we headed downtown to the Great Dane http://www.braamfontein.org.za/directory/view/great-dane . 

We arrived in Braamfontien to find it abuzz with bikes with neon lights and some interesting Glitter inspired outfits, upon enquiring we discovered that this was the Johannesburg Critical Mass Movement ride, which aims to have cycling tracks built in the city to avoid risky events such as loss of teeth, knee caps and possible death if run over by a motorist.   What was supposed to be quick drink turned out to be a jamming time on the dance floor with all these cyclists (still trying to decide if cycling under the influence isn’t as dangerous as walking home drunk especially in a country where our highest road fatalities are from pedestrians). 

Johannesberg Critical Mass- Night ride downtown.

 Thereafter we made our way to Puma social club http://www.pumasocialjozi.com/ which is literally a whole in the wall if you are not sure what you are looking for, make sure you have the password or you have liked their Facebook page otherwise you will be charged an entrance fee. The Puma social club is exactly what it promises to be, a spot where you can chill, play some pool, Ping-Pong and dance with your people in a chilled stress free environment.  If these are what new age clubs are about then bring it on.

Playing around at the photobooth

Hots spots /Activities 1 should not to miss visiting Jo’burg

1.       Braamfontein has become a hive of activity: from social clubs with great food and craft beer to food markets and galleries.  Get dropped off in Juta street and discover the city.

2.        On Juta and Jorrisen you are spoilt for choice when it comes to social clubs: Kitchener’s, Great  Dane and Puma Social club you are sure to have a good time.

3.       The red double decker bus: discover the inner city on these great informative tours. They taking you around the city centre giving you great insight about the City of Gold.