Rediscovering Yeoville - E@t Arabi's Good Food in Yeoville

                                  There is no end. There is no beginning. There is only the infinite passion of life. -  Fellini, Frederico.

 Having arrived in Jo ’burg in 2004 I had never ventured into Yeoville, I had passed by it, glanced at the street leading to it but never gone into it.  Everyone I met like a jilted lover spoke of its past and how it’s a hell hole that you should never by the grace of God ever get lost in.  Like a fallen woman ostracized by society, Yeoville was that girl. 

2 weeks back whilst travelling in Durban I came across a 2012 Marie Claire and in the travelling section they featured an array of mouth-watering food pictures taken from a restaurant in Yeoville.  E@t Arabi's Good Food, a vegetarian restaurant in the midst of the mess that is Yeoville? Impossible, but my curiosity was roused and upon arriving back in jo’burg I called my friend to let her know that we had to go to this place. 

That very Saturday with my sister, yogi’s and my Canadian couch surfer Vivi (having travelled broadly it would be interesting to get a stranger’s perspective on the safety of the area), we made our way to Yeoville. As I turned into Rocky road I expected some dilapidated buildings, poor faces but I was greeted with vibrancy like no other, different from the congestion that is Hillbrow.  I saw a lot of different African restaurant’s, tall beautiful black men, fit enough to be part of any army and so well dressed in various African print couture that they could have been taken off the ramps of SA Fashion Week.   I saw mothers walking with their children, a Nandos, a park with kids playing in it and a striking mosaic public swimming pool building.  Amidst all this sensory assimilation, I realized I was lost I could not find this restaurant. I asked a car guard and he directed me to the exact spot.  This restaurant was in fact a tiny space about 2 metres wide, it’s an open working space with the kitchen towards the back of the room, an assortment of spices all in full view.  Headlines cover the extractor and the cook is rolling flour free pure chickpea falafel. The aroma of spices and curry had me instantly hungry, as we all tucked in the goodness of the food, silence fell upon the room as sighs of satisfaction were shared amongst us.  Food cooked with love.  

 It wasn’t long before we were greeted with a warm “family welcome” hugs shared all round and finally I met the man behind the pictures that had brought me to Yeoville.  A huge smile and quick wit had me entranced.  Not only did he welcome total stranger like he had always known us but he shared his thoughts so freely with us.  Having lived in Yeoville for close to 20 years, Sanza is a well of knowledge, he can tell you the history of the place and this of course was interspersed with locals who passed by to see and greet his guests. In one sitting I met more nationalities from Africa than I had met in 1 month in the Northern suburbs. 

 The pavements where abuzz with activity; a Malawian vendor selling pineapples from a trolley, we were treated to these pineapples by a guest of Sanza’s from Cameroon.  The Ethiopian next door running Happy Supermarket peaked around the corner in acknowledgement of our presence, and a Rastafarian passed by saying “Faya”, real people, going about their daily life; interacting with each other more than we do in suburban malls.

Walking up the street I saw a memorial poster for a local lady who had passed away placed in a shop window; in a foreign country where some have no family they have made their own family through their shared experience as migrants.  Yeoville is a ghetto yet it’s alive with possibility, it has every character you can think of, it’s not all rosy but people know each other, they live together with their differences and make it work.  I was at ease and as careful as I am in Sandton of being pick-pocketed.

I do find it sad that we will let things go to ruin when change arises instead of seeing the possibility that change can bring.  Can we not be like trees, that even though they shed their leaves in winter they do not die from that loss but grow new leaves?  Things change the entire time can we not be abundant in how we see things. 

Venture into Yeoville and see it for yourself, find Sanza’s restaurant even CNN Africa travel found it I’m sure you can.

On the couch with Nomadic Michelle: Meeting Vivi

Vivi out on the streets with Nomadic Michelle

The first time I heard about couch surfing I was chatting to a friend in South Korea who was travelling to the Philippines and would be staying for free at someone’s home, with accommodation possibly being the most expensive part of one’s vacation, besides the airfare (that’s if you are travelling by plane) this seemed like a huge saving to me and definitely something to try out myself.

Having joined couch surfing I decided to start off with hosting people, with my profile up and ready,  I decided to contact some people on the list that had been sent me  by couchsurfing of people needing  accommodation in Jo ’burg.

I sent 2 emails and both came back with positive responses, my first guest would be Vivian a.k.a Vivi by the time she left (you know we South- African’s love shortening everything).  She was on a yearlong trip from Canada having travelled from Tanzania all the way down to South Africa.

What would make a young woman leave her home comforts to take on the big, wide world?

Vivi had decided on taking this trip 4 years ago, over the 4 years she saved enough money to make this dream come true, I suppose at 30 you have to do something wildly brave and exciting.  A whole year on the road sounds like an adventure of a lifetime.  When she contacted me to let me know that she was on her way in taxi from Mtubatuba I thought this girl has lost her mind! A Taxi from Mtubatuba is no joke; her reasoning was if so many locals use it surely it cannot be that bad.  She arrived in Johannesburg on time and was escorted by one of the taxi folk to the Gautrain at Park station (nothing like good old South African Hospitality). This guy did not even ask her for a tip and when she apologised for not having one for him he simply said “Ai sister do not worry I was just making sure you are safe.”

Is Jo ‘burg such a Big Bad City?

When I met Vivi she was sitting outside the Gautrain station in Rosebank, the big backpacking bag told me that this was my guest. After getting acquainted she told me about her trip to the city of gold and how en route when they stopped to fill up with petrol,  a gas station attendant was so taken with her that he asked for her hand in marriage and would not allow the taxi to leave until he had made his intentions clear to her.  We both had a good giggle because Zulu men are well known for not allowing a gorgeous woman to pass their sight without making a proposal (our president is a good example).  After arriving at my place Viv was ready to see what Jo ‘burg has to offer and we headed downtown to the Great Dane http://www.braamfontein.org.za/directory/view/great-dane . 

We arrived in Braamfontien to find it abuzz with bikes with neon lights and some interesting Glitter inspired outfits, upon enquiring we discovered that this was the Johannesburg Critical Mass Movement ride, which aims to have cycling tracks built in the city to avoid risky events such as loss of teeth, knee caps and possible death if run over by a motorist.   What was supposed to be quick drink turned out to be a jamming time on the dance floor with all these cyclists (still trying to decide if cycling under the influence isn’t as dangerous as walking home drunk especially in a country where our highest road fatalities are from pedestrians). 

Johannesberg Critical Mass- Night ride downtown.

 Thereafter we made our way to Puma social club http://www.pumasocialjozi.com/ which is literally a whole in the wall if you are not sure what you are looking for, make sure you have the password or you have liked their Facebook page otherwise you will be charged an entrance fee. The Puma social club is exactly what it promises to be, a spot where you can chill, play some pool, Ping-Pong and dance with your people in a chilled stress free environment.  If these are what new age clubs are about then bring it on.

Playing around at the photobooth

Hots spots /Activities 1 should not to miss visiting Jo’burg

1.       Braamfontein has become a hive of activity: from social clubs with great food and craft beer to food markets and galleries.  Get dropped off in Juta street and discover the city.

2.        On Juta and Jorrisen you are spoilt for choice when it comes to social clubs: Kitchener’s, Great  Dane and Puma Social club you are sure to have a good time.

3.       The red double decker bus: discover the inner city on these great informative tours. They taking you around the city centre giving you great insight about the City of Gold.

I'm Back!

I have been busy travelling around South Africa: Nelspruit, Northwest Province (I finally ventured past Hartebeespoort) Newcastle, Pretoria and Cape Town (twice in 3 months… it’s the mountain, sea, wine, festivals, the great weather in March and I spotted 2 WHALES unfortunately I only had my phone with me and not one of those trip-tronic camera's  hence I could not take a picture to share with everyoneL)   

So If I was travelling why the sudden silence? I have to admit I was cheating on my BlogSpot account with a Tumblr account.  A friend suggested that I try Tumblr as it was more user-friendly, she gave me some really valid reasons to try it out, so I did.  As with most relationships it’s important to start off with a good foundation which is exactly where this affair went wrong;  with all the travelling I was doing  I was not very good at getting to know the nitty-gritty about my account.  Tumblr lost its shine and appeal, I found myself longing to connect with the people who have been enjoying reading my travel stories.   So I’m back!  That’s if you will have me.

Singing for my accomodation in Pretoria...see its not the first time I have been reduced to some form of begging

Seoul Sister: You have to have Faith to meet Faith.

"You are never alone or helpless, the force that guides the stars is with you too." 

Shrii Shrii Anandamurti

Whilst traveling there were many times where I found myself, lost, alone and not sure.  Luckily though the Universe never let me down, whenever I thought I was lost I was found. I met interesting and amazing people who let me into their world.  People were kind to me in a ways I least expected.

Clearly I'm not the only one who gets lost from time to time if they have these on the floor at the subway station.

Asking around in my circle of friends, for contacts in South Korea I was introduced to the nicest couple; they took care of me and showed me a good time.  They introduced me to Corona Margarita’s, just what a girl on holiday needs.

Expect the unexpected, like speaking Zulu in South Korea! before I left South Africa I didn’t think I would bump into any Zulu speaking South Africans in Korea.  Boy was I close minded about that,  I met some lovely folks who offered me a roof over my head at any time and they showed me around Seoul.  We are all connected.

Faith and I met at Seoul Station we had missed the last train. All it took was a “hello” and we were off to explore the nightlife in Itaewon. 

Meeting Faith opened up another world of possibilities.  I travelled to Busan, a coastal city to meet up with her for the weekend.   I met the funniest, kindest and coolest people in Busan resulting in me having the time of my life - Gangnam Style!

Sometimes if you choose the beaten track and make your own in-roads, you will meet lady luck and really get immersed into someone else’s culture.

I met O’ ma at the sauna, I was naked in a plunge pool when this woman came up to me and stared.  I figured my chest was at it again soliciting unnecessary attention.  She couldn’t speak a word of English but the body speaks louder than any words.  We fast became friends and I was invited to her home,  introduced to the family and was spoilt with the most amazing meals.  By the time I left SK I was weeping because of the relationship I had formed with my precious O’ma.

South Korean Independance Day Breakfast at O'ma's home.

 

It all starts and often ends with sharing a meal and some thoughts.

Be open to anything, life favours the curious.   

Seoul Sister – Late, Lost & Numberless!

I caught a glimpse of Singapore, a glimpse from the sky, of lights, beautiful lights as we landed at 6 am.   I had an hour to catch my next flight, by the time I made it to the sky train the sun had come out to play.   I was delighted to see that the flight attendant who would be looking after my section was as glorious a specimen as the sun outside.  He had the most awe-inspiring eyes I had seen on a man in a long… long time.  I sunk into my seat enjoying  my view, I even forgot that arriving in South Korea would have to be “rush central”,  as I was  already 2 hours behind schedule and I literally had an hour and a bit to catch my flight to Suncheon at another airport!

Singapore airport from the sky train

Arriving in South Korea I was incredibly excited and in a hurry, I had a flight to catch. I had just made it through customs, about to sashay through the gates after having picked up my luggage when 2 officers singled me out and took me aside for questioning.  At this point I told myself “its ok this won’t take more than 5 minutes.” Little did I know that the officers spoke very little English and my 4 pairs of shoes would be cause for suspicion, who even asks a woman why do you have 4 pairs of shoes?     When they eventually let me go it was a mad dash to Gimpo International Airport but first I had to find the Expressway train that would get me there.

Incheon International Airport - Taken by Rehman

 as I ran through the airport I began to understand why this airport was voted Best airport worldwide for 7 years in a row. 

1.  Its huge.

2. It’s well organised for a place that always has so many people moving through it.

3. It has various entertainment facilities including an ice-rink. 

Train signs were my saving grace because if I had to ask people I would never have found it as quickly,   as my questions were often met with looks of deep confusion.

 I arrived at Gimpo International Airport only to find I had missed my flight and there were no more flights to Suncheon.  As I digested that bit of information I realized I had in transit lost my paper with all the numbers I should call if I miss my flight.  That’s when the real adventure began!

 I dragged my bright red suitcase back to the Expressway train heading back to Incheon International Airport it was so cumbersome that at times different men would help me by lifting it on to the escalators for me.   I was lost for 4 hours; I went from bus terminal to bus terminal asking for a bus to Sunchoen that I was pronouncing the same as Luncheon.  When it should have been pronounced Sunchon (soon-chon)!   Eventually someone was able to make sense of what I was looking for and helped me.  I arrived at Central City Station at 10pm.   I was still without numbers; luckly I had saved them in my Facebook & Gmail account because you never know when you might lose a piece of paper!  I just needed internet access.

 As I made my way around the station I saw signs to the Marriot Hotel, I knew they would have a business center so I made my way there.  I pretended to check-in but had to email home first to let them know I had arrived safely.  I used the computer and thanked the lady and left.  With very little money on me I was worried about using it and finding myself penniless in Suncheon.   My bus eventually left the station for Suncheon at 11:30pm, I was happy to be on my way but with no phone and just a piece of paper with numbers, I did not know how I was going to find my way to Janine. 

Finally on my way to Suncheon

 Eventually 30 minutes before we were due to arrive in Suncheon I started praying that the guy sitting next to me would offer me his phone to make a call.   We had not said a word to one another let alone shared a smile throughout the trip.   We sat side by side, I observed him, he was awfully busy on his laptop, pulling out 3 different electronic pieces that captured his attention.  I fell in and out of sleep and every time I looked over he was still busy with his laptop, phone and something that looked like a PS2.

 I didn’t dare say something just in case he didn’t want to be bothered and a part of me had given up on finding someone who spoke English.  As we entered Suncheon and the bus lights turned on this guy turned, looked at me and asked me in perfect English “are you coming off at the university or at the station?” Say what?  I almost fell out of my skin!    This whole time I had thought he could not speak a word of English and he was as fluent as most South Africans. A flood of relief washed over me and in excitement I said to him ”this whole time! You could speak English and didn’t say a word” and he responded “you didn’t say hello”  

Janine and I on my first day in Suncheon

Who said black woman aren’t adventurous?

I was woken up by a rustling in the roof, listening in; I realized it was home to some pigeons.   Considering it was 4am in the morning I came to the conclusion that this little family lives on the principle that the early bird catches the fattest worm, because why would they be up at 4AM!?!

Whilst my thoughts blasted the worm, I found myself wide awake and restless.  The deep sleep I had dived into was now just a distant dream.  My thoughts soon turned to the adventure that lied ahead, abseiling off the longest single-drop abseil in the world.   Unable to lie in bed any longer, I headed out to enjoy the sunrise.  The sun peered through the trees greeting the river that snaked through the property.  You could smell the mountains just like you can smell the ocean when you are at the seaside.  My senses were alive taking everything in.   I thought that by then I would have been feeling nervous or slightly edgy about the abseil but instead I was feeling calm beyond placid.  I wanted to take everything in, slowly, silently and without worry.  

7am finally arrived!  We met our local guides who would be putting us through our paces. We began with our training; abseiling a 40m rock face in preparation for the 204m long abseil down the side of the waterfall.  

Geared up and ready to begin our training.

 The first and the last time I abseiled  was in my teens,  I can still remember the sinking feeling that filled my stomach the moment the guide (whom might I mention had asked me if I trust him)  told me to step back… and there was nothing…nothing  to catch me.  That sheer disbelief of falling, with no control.  For a second you cannot think of anything … then your senses kick in, your body springs into action and before you know it it’s all over and then you just want to do it again. 





Safety Check.

This time I was ready,   I had an idea of what to expect easing any butterflies I might have had.  The training was a breeze for my friend and I and an hour later we were done and on our way to the falls.  The guide who was driving us to the falls was the first certified Eco- guide in Lesotho as he spoke about what his qualification meant to him, his voice beamed with pride that he, a guy from a village as small as Semonkong had managed to excel and be the first to succeed. 

Arriving at the site we were taken to view the waterfall first, I swear this must be a scare tactic for those people who have height, water or falling phobias because immediately doubt set in amongst the group.  Instead of participating in the conversation of uncertainty,   I withdrew and just fell silent, I feared nothing, I trusted that the guys would do everything required to ensure my safety and the rest I couldn’t have been bothered about.  I wanted no worry, no anxiety just the experience, after all how could I desire certainty when we live in uncertainty every day. 

Sitting on a rock waiting for my turn I was totally blown away by the enormity and the majestic beauty of the Maluti Mountains, besides the angora goats and the shepherds who came to watch our fall, there was no one else. 

My turn finally arrived and standing on the edge, a wave of excitement hit me. I leaned back, looked at the guy and stepped back.  

Standing at the edge.

 The feeling is always mind blowing, my heartbeat turned up a notch, and I could feel my skin beating with it.   I let out a huge Whoop, whoop! As the water sprayed my skin I opened my arms embracing the freedom, the magnificence that is nature. 

Thats tiny spec is me ...the power of nature!

All too soon I found myself at the bottom of the waterfall. I let out another shriek of delight!  I wanted to sprawl out on the rocks and hug the waterfall and just stay in the moment for a second longer.   

Hands up for my Victory Lap!

I had done it! I had abseiled 204m (670ft) down the Maletsunyane waterfall, 50 story’s of pure ecstasy.  I looked up taking it all in, feeling victorious, the guide who was waiting for me gave me a high5, “you are one fearless woman” he said,  “ you looked like you were having the time of your life up there.”  As his words sank in I smiled even more after all Life favour’s the brave.  As I finally walked away from my moment, I looked for my friend so we could share in each other’s triumph it’s not every day that  one does something as exciting as this and to share that moment with someone else makes it that much sweeter.

The face of bravery.

Those who have seen my pictures often ask me would I do it again… My answer is the same every time.  Yes in a heartbeat!

visit http://www.placeofsmoke.co.ls/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=5&Itemid=8  if you would like to find out more about the activities available at Semonkong, I'm definitely going back for the donkey pub crawl!

Mesmerizing Lesotho!

Have you ever been to a place where at every turn you are literally having your breath taken away by the beauty you see?   Besides almost suffocating to death by beautiful scenery, I’m pretty sure my co-pilot was tired of hearing “oh wow…. look at that!” as I held my breath at every turn.

still holding my breath

 We were on a long winding drive to Semonkong “the place of smoke”.  The directions to this place where very vague in fact they read “A couple of hills, a couple of bends – Semonkong Lodge is where the road ends!”  What they meant was a couple hundred hills and more bends than you can imagine but you will eventually find the lodge at the foot of a river.  After the promised 3 hour journey had passed and we were still on the road, doubt set in.  What if we are lost?  What if we took the wrong turn?  With no Google maps and no road signs I resorted to faith “don’t worry I said the “directions” say it’s at the end of the road we just haven’t arrived yet.  To further ease our anxiety we stopped when we saw the next stranger to affirm that we were still on the right path.  Countless hills later and several strangers in between, nightfall fell and now we really started to worry as the road seemed to be getting worse and worse and there was still no sign of the lodge.  

Those mountain peaks look like the traditional Basotho hat.

Asking one of the sheperds to affirm if were on track.

As life would have it, often in your darkest moment when you think all is lost it’s at that very moment that you see a sign of hope… Lights ahead!  We were excited, glad to see some form of civilization.  We hurtled along, flinching at every bump that attempted to do some damage to our trusty vehicle.  We eventually arrived, tired and hoping that we still had accommodation for the night. 

The winding roads to Semonkong

Luckily many a visitors to Semonkong have been known to take more than the said 3hours to reach this place of tranquility so we still had a place to sleep with a fireplace! (Lesotho gets cold in the evenings after all this is the land of the blanket people)  We had our supper underneath the stars and boy where those star’s bright and plentiful.  Such unmasked splendor can only be experienced in the most rural parts of the world. 

I found myself withdrawing into myself, taking in the sounds and the magnificence of my surroundings, thinking of the 204m long adventure that awaited in the morning.

Semonkong Lodge in the Morning.