Monday, 8 July 2013

City of Gold - Exploring the streets of Jo'burg CBD

Born in 1886 Jo'burg was concieved from barren,rocky land after gold was found on a farm in Langlagte, it grew rapidly with people from all over South Africa and afar making their way to the City of Gold to claim thier fortune. What started off as barren land grew to being the largest man-made urban forrest in the world at 6 million trees Jo'burg has certainly earned the title. 

If you really want to get to the heart of Jo'burg a walking tour of town is in order.  The city centre has some of the oldest buildings   Architecture tells a story of a different era. During the week it is  always abuzz with activity, people commuting to work, hawkers selling fruits and vegetables on the side of the road and bankers making their way to the financial district. 
Taxi's shuttling commuters around jo'burg, taxis are still the most used form of public transport in South Africa.



If get tired of walking you can take the BRT bus system to get around stopping off at interesting place such as the "Top of Africa" in Carlton Centre a 223m Long building that has 50 floors.  Here you can enjoy taking in various sites of jo'burg,  in fact on a clear day you can even see Pretoria depending on which side you are standing of course.



Stop off at the Guildhall Pub  for a drink,  this pub has sat for 115 years on the edge of Johannesburg's original market square, now known as the Library Gardens. Read more: http://www.joburg.org.za/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=101&limitstart=1#ixzz2YIbL3HpB

There are some great companies doing walking tours in Jo'burg if you want any information on these drop me a line.





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Saturday, 6 July 2013

Arts on Main - The Perfect Sunday Outing

Finding something to do in Jo'burg on Sunday is never hard; in fact it’s harder staying indoors.  One of my favourite places is Arts on Main on Fox Street in Maboneng District. Every Sunday people flock to Arts on Main to enjoy a meal with friends, share some Ethiopian coffee with strangers, salsa on the rooftop with a sexy Colombian or Cuban, watch some pop art and enjoy the various talents that Jo’burg has to offer.  There is something for everyone the social butterfly, the coffee connoisseur, the cocktail lover and the lover of all things art.   

Welcome to Maboneng visit www.mabonengprecinct.com
A Graffiti Artist's Paradise- The wall are adorned with some creative murals.


They have everything for everyone, if you fancy Mexican for lunch and your partner some Thai curry you can find it all at the food market.  



Cocktail anyone?  They make the most amazing Mojitos a perfect sundowner after a long day of sight-seeing.

From 2pm group salsa on the rooftop makes for exciting times. If you enjoy dancing then you must pass by the vibe is electric even if you aren't keen on dancing. 


If you don't fancy dancing then a bike tour around the area might just be what you need.

Young drummers having a drumming session outside Baobab restaurant who from time to time do a collaboration with http://nomadicmichelle.blogspot.com/#!/2013/05/rediscovering-yeoville-et-arabis-good.html

I would love to know what is your favourite place in Maboneg District.  Drop us a comment.


Pictures are courtesy of Vivi Ann Meija

Thursday, 9 May 2013

Rediscovering Yeoville - E@t Arabi's Good Food in Yeoville

                                  There is no end. There is no beginning. There is only the infinite passion of life. -  Fellini, Frederico.
 Having arrived in Jo ’burg in 2004 I had never ventured into Yeoville, I had passed by it, glanced at the street leading to it but never gone into it.  Everyone I met like a jilted lover spoke of its past and how it’s a hell hole that you should never by the grace of God ever get lost in.  Like a fallen woman ostracized by society, Yeoville was that girl. 
2 weeks back whilst travelling in Durban I came across a 2012 Marie Claire and in the travelling section they featured an array of mouth-watering food pictures taken from a restaurant in Yeoville.  E@t Arabi's Good Food, a vegetarian restaurant in the midst of the mess that is Yeoville? Impossible, but my curiosity was roused and upon arriving back in jo’burg I called my friend to let her know that we had to go to this place. 

That very Saturday with my sister, yogi’s and my Canadian couch surfer Vivi (having travelled broadly it would be interesting to get a stranger’s perspective on the safety of the area), we made our way to Yeoville. As I turned into Rocky road I expected some dilapidated buildings, poor faces but I was greeted with vibrancy like no other, different from the congestion that is Hillbrow.  I saw a lot of different African restaurant’s, tall beautiful black men, fit enough to be part of any army and so well dressed in various African print couture that they could have been taken off the ramps of SA Fashion Week.   I saw mothers walking with their children, a Nandos, a park with kids playing in it and a striking mosaic public swimming pool building.  Amidst all this sensory assimilation, I realized I was lost I could not find this restaurant. I asked a car guard and he directed me to the exact spot.  This restaurant was in fact a tiny space about 2 metres wide, it’s an open working space with the kitchen towards the back of the room, an assortment of spices all in full view.  Headlines cover the extractor and the cook is rolling flour free pure chickpea falafel. The aroma of spices and curry had me instantly hungry, as we all tucked in the goodness of the food, silence fell upon the room as sighs of satisfaction were shared amongst us.  Food cooked with love.  

 It wasn’t long before we were greeted with a warm “family welcome” hugs shared all round and finally I met the man behind the pictures that had brought me to Yeoville.  A huge smile and quick wit had me entranced.  Not only did he welcome total stranger like he had always known us but he shared his thoughts so freely with us.  Having lived in Yeoville for close to 20 years, Sanza is a well of knowledge, he can tell you the history of the place and this of course was interspersed with locals who passed by to see and greet his guests. In one sitting I met more nationalities from Africa than I had met in 1 month in the Northern suburbs. 

 The pavements where abuzz with activity; a Malawian vendor selling pineapples from a trolley, we were treated to these pineapples by a guest of Sanza’s from Cameroon.  The Ethiopian next door running Happy Supermarket peaked around the corner in acknowledgement of our presence, and a Rastafarian passed by saying “Faya”, real people, going about their daily life; interacting with each other more than we do in suburban malls.
Walking up the street I saw a memorial poster for a local lady who had passed away placed in a shop window; in a foreign country where some have no family they have made their own family through their shared experience as migrants.  Yeoville is a ghetto yet it’s alive with possibility, it has every character you can think of, it’s not all rosy but people know each other, they live together with their differences and make it work.  I was at ease and as careful as I am in Sandton of being pick-pocketed.
I do find it sad that we will let things go to ruin when change arises instead of seeing the possibility that change can bring.  Can we not be like trees, that even though they shed their leaves in winter they do not die from that loss but grow new leaves?  Things change the entire time can we not be abundant in how we see things. 
Venture into Yeoville and see it for yourself, find Sanza’s restaurant even CNN Africa travel found it I’m sure you can.

Monday, 6 May 2013

On the couch with Nomadic Michelle: Meeting Vivi

Vivi out on the streets with Nomadic Michelle
The first time I heard about couch surfing I was chatting to a friend in South Korea who was travelling to the Philippines and would be staying for free at someone’s home, with accommodation possibly being the most expensive part of one’s vacation, besides the airfare (that’s if you are travelling by plane) this seemed like a huge saving to me and definitely something to try out myself.
Having joined couch surfing I decided to start off with hosting people, with my profile up and ready,  I decided to contact some people on the list that had been sent me  by couchsurfing of people needing  accommodation in Jo ’burg.
I sent 2 emails and both came back with positive responses, my first guest would be Vivian a.k.a Vivi by the time she left (you know we South- African’s love shortening everything).  She was on a yearlong trip from Canada having travelled from Tanzania all the way down to South Africa.
What would make a young woman leave her home comforts to take on the big, wide world?
Vivi had decided on taking this trip 4 years ago, over the 4 years she saved enough money to make this dream come true, I suppose at 30 you have to do something wildly brave and exciting.  A whole year on the road sounds like an adventure of a lifetime.  When she contacted me to let me know that she was on her way in taxi from Mtubatuba I thought this girl has lost her mind! A Taxi from Mtubatuba is no joke; her reasoning was if so many locals use it surely it cannot be that bad.  She arrived in Johannesburg on time and was escorted by one of the taxi folk to the Gautrain at Park station (nothing like good old South African Hospitality). This guy did not even ask her for a tip and when she apologised for not having one for him he simply said “Ai sister do not worry I was just making sure you are safe.”
Is Jo ‘burg such a Big Bad City?
When I met Vivi she was sitting outside the Gautrain station in Rosebank, the big backpacking bag told me that this was my guest. After getting acquainted she told me about her trip to the city of gold and how en route when they stopped to fill up with petrol,  a gas station attendant was so taken with her that he asked for her hand in marriage and would not allow the taxi to leave until he had made his intentions clear to her.  We both had a good giggle because Zulu men are well known for not allowing a gorgeous woman to pass their sight without making a proposal (our president is a good example).  After arriving at my place Viv was ready to see what Jo ‘burg has to offer and we headed downtown to the Great Dane http://www.braamfontein.org.za/directory/view/great-dane . 
We arrived in Braamfontien to find it abuzz with bikes with neon lights and some interesting Glitter inspired outfits, upon enquiring we discovered that this was the Johannesburg Critical Mass Movement ride, which aims to have cycling tracks built in the city to avoid risky events such as loss of teeth, knee caps and possible death if run over by a motorist.   What was supposed to be quick drink turned out to be a jamming time on the dance floor with all these cyclists (still trying to decide if cycling under the influence isn’t as dangerous as walking home drunk especially in a country where our highest road fatalities are from pedestrians). 
Johannesberg Critical Mass- Night ride downtown.

 Thereafter we made our way to Puma social club http://www.pumasocialjozi.com/ which is literally a whole in the wall if you are not sure what you are looking for, make sure you have the password or you have liked their Facebook page otherwise you will be charged an entrance fee. The Puma social club is exactly what it promises to be, a spot where you can chill, play some pool, Ping-Pong and dance with your people in a chilled stress free environment.  If these are what new age clubs are about then bring it on.
Playing around at the photobooth
Hots spots /Activities 1 should not to miss visiting Jo’burg
1.       Braamfontein has become a hive of activity: from social clubs with great food and craft beer to food markets and galleries.  Get dropped off in Juta street and discover the city.
2.        On Juta and Jorrisen you are spoilt for choice when it comes to social clubs: Kitchener’s, Great  Dane and Puma Social club you are sure to have a good time.
3.       The red double decker bus: discover the inner city on these great informative tours. They taking you around the city centre giving you great insight about the City of Gold.

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

I'm Back!

I have been busy travelling around South Africa: Nelspruit, Northwest Province (I finally ventured past Hartebeespoort) Newcastle, Pretoria and Cape Town (twice in 3 months… it’s the mountain, sea, wine, festivals, the great weather in March and I spotted 2 WHALES unfortunately I only had my phone with me and not one of those trip-tronic camera's  hence I could not take a picture to share with everyoneL)   
So If I was travelling why the sudden silence? I have to admit I was cheating on my BlogSpot account with a Tumblr account.  A friend suggested that I try Tumblr as it was more user-friendly, she gave me some really valid reasons to try it out, so I did.  As with most relationships it’s important to start off with a good foundation which is exactly where this affair went wrong;  with all the travelling I was doing  I was not very good at getting to know the nitty-gritty about my account.  Tumblr lost its shine and appeal, I found myself longing to connect with the people who have been enjoying reading my travel stories.   So I’m back!  That’s if you will have me.

Singing for my accomodation in Pretoria...see its not the first time I have been reduced to some form of begging

Friday, 21 December 2012

Seoul Sister: You have to have Faith to meet Faith.

"You are never alone or helpless, the force that guides the stars is with you too." 
Shrii Shrii Anandamurti

Whilst traveling there were many times where I found myself, lost, alone and not sure.  Luckily though the Universe never let me down, whenever I thought I was lost I was found. I met interesting and amazing people who let me into their world.  People were kind to me in a ways I least expected.
Clearly I'm not the only one who gets lost from time to time if they have these on the floor at the subway station.



Asking around in my circle of friends, for contacts in South Korea I was introduced to the nicest couple; they took care of me and showed me a good time.  They introduced me to Corona Margarita’s, just what a girl on holiday needs.


Expect the unexpected, like speaking Zulu in South Korea! before I left South Africa I didn’t think I would bump into any Zulu speaking South Africans in Korea.  Boy was I close minded about that,  I met some lovely folks who offered me a roof over my head at any time and they showed me around Seoul.  We are all connected.

Faith and I met at Seoul Station we had missed the last train. All it took was a “hello” and we were off to explore the nightlife in Itaewon. 

Meeting Faith opened up another world of possibilities.  I travelled to Busan, a coastal city to meet up with her for the weekend.   I met the funniest, kindest and coolest people in Busan resulting in me having the time of my life - Gangnam Style!


Sometimes if you choose the beaten track and make your own in-roads, you will meet lady luck and really get immersed into someone else’s culture.


I met O’ ma at the sauna, I was naked in a plunge pool when this woman came up to me and stared.  I figured my chest was at it again soliciting unnecessary attention.  She couldn’t speak a word of English but the body speaks louder than any words.  We fast became friends and I was invited to her home,  introduced to the family and was spoilt with the most amazing meals.  By the time I left SK I was weeping because of the relationship I had formed with my precious O’ma.

South Korean Independance Day Breakfast at O'ma's home.

 
It all starts and often ends with sharing a meal and some thoughts.

Be open to anything, life favours the curious.   

Thursday, 13 December 2012

Seoul Sister – Late, Lost & Numberless!

I caught a glimpse of Singapore, a glimpse from the sky, of lights, beautiful lights as we landed at 6 am.   I had an hour to catch my next flight, by the time I made it to the sky train the sun had come out to play.   I was delighted to see that the flight attendant who would be looking after my section was as glorious a specimen as the sun outside.  He had the most awe-inspiring eyes I had seen on a man in a long… long time.  I sunk into my seat enjoying  my view, I even forgot that arriving in South Korea would have to be “rush central”,  as I was  already 2 hours behind schedule and I literally had an hour and a bit to catch my flight to Suncheon at another airport!
Singapore airport from the sky train

Arriving in South Korea I was incredibly excited and in a hurry, I had a flight to catch. I had just made it through customs, about to sashay through the gates after having picked up my luggage when 2 officers singled me out and took me aside for questioning.  At this point I told myself “its ok this won’t take more than 5 minutes.” Little did I know that the officers spoke very little English and my 4 pairs of shoes would be cause for suspicion, who even asks a woman why do you have 4 pairs of shoes?     When they eventually let me go it was a mad dash to Gimpo International Airport but first I had to find the Expressway train that would get me there.
Incheon International Airport - Taken by Rehman

 as I ran through the airport I began to understand why this airport was voted Best airport worldwide for 7 years in a row. 
1.  Its huge.
2. It’s well organised for a place that always has so many people moving through it.
3. It has various entertainment facilities including an ice-rink. 
Train signs were my saving grace because if I had to ask people I would never have found it as quickly,   as my questions were often met with looks of deep confusion.
 I arrived at Gimpo International Airport only to find I had missed my flight and there were no more flights to Suncheon.  As I digested that bit of information I realized I had in transit lost my paper with all the numbers I should call if I miss my flight.  That’s when the real adventure began!
 I dragged my bright red suitcase back to the Expressway train heading back to Incheon International Airport it was so cumbersome that at times different men would help me by lifting it on to the escalators for me.   I was lost for 4 hours; I went from bus terminal to bus terminal asking for a bus to Sunchoen that I was pronouncing the same as Luncheon.  When it should have been pronounced Sunchon (soon-chon)!   Eventually someone was able to make sense of what I was looking for and helped me.  I arrived at Central City Station at 10pm.   I was still without numbers; luckly I had saved them in my Facebook & Gmail account because you never know when you might lose a piece of paper!  I just needed internet access.

 As I made my way around the station I saw signs to the Marriot Hotel, I knew they would have a business center so I made my way there.  I pretended to check-in but had to email home first to let them know I had arrived safely.  I used the computer and thanked the lady and left.  With very little money on me I was worried about using it and finding myself penniless in Suncheon.   My bus eventually left the station for Suncheon at 11:30pm, I was happy to be on my way but with no phone and just a piece of paper with numbers, I did not know how I was going to find my way to Janine. 
Finally on my way to Suncheon
 Eventually 30 minutes before we were due to arrive in Suncheon I started praying that the guy sitting next to me would offer me his phone to make a call.   We had not said a word to one another let alone shared a smile throughout the trip.   We sat side by side, I observed him, he was awfully busy on his laptop, pulling out 3 different electronic pieces that captured his attention.  I fell in and out of sleep and every time I looked over he was still busy with his laptop, phone and something that looked like a PS2.
 I didn’t dare say something just in case he didn’t want to be bothered and a part of me had given up on finding someone who spoke English.  As we entered Suncheon and the bus lights turned on this guy turned, looked at me and asked me in perfect English “are you coming off at the university or at the station?” Say what?  I almost fell out of my skin!    This whole time I had thought he could not speak a word of English and he was as fluent as most South Africans. A flood of relief washed over me and in excitement I said to him ”this whole time! You could speak English and didn’t say a word” and he responded “you didn’t say hello”  
Janine and I on my first day in Suncheon

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